

Gangtok, like many other hill capitals, is blessed with a superb location. The ridge along which the town lies faces the Khangchendzonga in the west. The lower hills in the vicinity tumble down through the golden green terraces of paddy fields. Above the town, towards the top of the ridge, Enchey monastery keeps a vigil over the city. Nearby, Ganesh Tok offers a panoramic view of the Gangtok area. In the middle of the undulating valley, the old palace of the erstwhile king stands upon a hillock commanding a strategic yet scenic position. The zoological park next to Ganesh Tok is worth a visit for the sake of its superb location. A walk along its silent winding roads with exotic birds and tall pines for company and the snow-clad Himalayas as a constant beacon sets the mind free and the spirit soaring.

Situated 23 km away, on a hill opposite Gangtok, Rumtek monastery is the seat of Karma Pa who heads the Kargyupa sect of Tibetan Buddhism. The plan, layout and buildings of this monastery give an idea of high Tibetan architecture to sensitive visitors—momentarily getting lost in the alleys, stairways, quadrangles and terraces of this vast built-up space. Statues, thangkas, tubular silk banners, wall-paintings and, above all, the disciplined yet relaxed group of monks scurrying about their daily business, gives a physical sense of being in another age and time. These images, complete with their joss-stick incense and gong sounds, remain etched in the memory for subsequent mental flights into another beautiful world.
Back in the centre of Gangtok, with its bazaars, bars and travel agents, one can do two things—shopping or arranging a trip to one of the must-see corners of Sikkim. Carpets, statuettes, masks, local silver jewellery with red corals and dragon motifs an


Towards the southern end of this flat expanse, on the other side of the river, the hot springs are reached by crossing the pedestrian bridge. The colourful prayer flags flutter furiously along the length of the bridge. The sulphur-rich water of the hot springs is collected in two covered pools for use by the bathers. An extended bath-session with underdressed Sikkimese boys, chatting and joking, under the blackened wooden planks of the high conical roof is literally like getting immersed into another culture.
Lachung, where most of these young boys come from to work as tour guides, is an old village on the way to Yumthang. The monastery here is famous for its Tibetan Mask Dance or Chaam that is performed here every year after the harvest season which generally falls in December. The courtyard is filled with men, women and children, gathered behind small portable cupboards that store their provisions for the day. Chhang, the delicious local barley beer, served in bamboo containers lined with silver, is freely circulated among friends and family. Amidst these gay surroundings, the eternal fight between good and evil is re-enacted through spectacular dances performed by dancers in fantastic masks. One senses the true spirit of a festival and the magic of Sikkim.

Further ahead at 14,400 ft, Nathu La (Pass) connects Sikkim with Chumbi Valley in Tibet. Trade caravans used to ply this route till 1962. Now one can see Indian and Chinese soldiers manning the border. 
The south-western corner of Sikkim is a land of verdant forests, steep bills, gushing waterfalls, superb trekking and magical monasteries like Pemyangtse and Tashiding, housing priceless religious antiques. The ruins of the old capital of Sikkim can still be seen in Yuksum. Trekking routes along the southern and eastern slopes of the Khangchen dzonga massif provide great opportunities to explore the natural beauty of the region. To some, this is the most rewarding reason to visit Sikkim—a perfect fusion of scenic beauty and cultural heritage.

The south-western corner of Sikkim is a land of verdant forests, steep bills, gushing waterfalls, superb trekking and magical monasteries like Pemyangtse and Tashiding, housing priceless religious antiques. The ruins of the old capital of Sikkim can still be seen in Yuksum. Trekking routes along the southern and eastern slopes of the Khangchen dzonga massif provide great opportunities to explore the natural beauty of the region. To some, this is the most rewarding reason to visit Sikkim—a perfect fusion of scenic beauty and cultural heritage.