Friday, April 20, 2007

Unveiling Sikkim's mystique

This North-Eastern State is a treasure trove of scenery,
adventure trails, gompas and colourful people, a land that has not been
exploited by tourists.

S ikkim is like a stupendous stairway leading from the western border of the Tibetan plateau down to the plains of West Bengal, with a fall of about 5,215 metres in 240 km. The surface of this rough incline is scoured with deep gorges, down which rush glacial waters, swollen by the excessive rainfall of this, the wettest section of the Himalayas.
The State lies like an amphitheatre, open towards the south, between the Singalila and Chola ranges to the west and east respectively. The ranges also form the watersheds of the Rangeet and the Teesta rivers.
From the valley, watered by the fast-flowing Teesta, terraced rice fields rise in amazing shades of green, giving Sikkim its other name of Beyul Demozong or Hidden Valley of Rice. Sikkim is also known for the steepest rise in altitude over the shortest distance.
Ecosystem
The awesome topographical variety makes Sikkim a virtual laboratory for the study of ecosystems. The British naturalist Dr Joseph Dalton Hooker spent several years in Sikkim in the 19th century and his material, compiled in Himalayan Journal, proved invaluable for Charles Darwin in his study of the Origin of Species. Botanically, Sikkim has an amazing diversity to offer. To begin with, 36 per cent of the State is forested, which makes for a wonderful contrast with the other fast-denuding hill States of India.
The animal life of Sikkim is equally varied. A number of exotic animals such as the shapi (the Himalayan tahr), red panda, musk deer, snow leopard, blue sheep, and the massive Himalayan bear roam its slopes. The State also has over 400 types of butterflies and 550 species of birds.
But Sikkim's actual wealth is in its flowers. When Dr Hooker tabulated them some 150 years ago, there were 2,920 species. Primulas, poppies and gentians all run a riot of colour in spring, but pride of place is reserved for the orchids and rhododendrons. Of the 5,000 species of orchids known in the world, 600 can be found in the lower reaches of Sikkim alone.
Ethnic diversity
The original inhabitants of Sikkim were the mountain people, the Lepchas. They are concentrated in the Dzongu, Penlong and Dikchu valleys of North SikkimTheir arts, crafts and songs reflect their deep bond with nature.
Buddhism in Sikkim
In the highest reaches of Sikkim, cradled in the crook of the Khang-chen-dzonga, are walls of stone etched with these sacred six syllables. Buddhism has a tangible presence in Sikkim, its symbols seen everywhere. White prayer flags fluttering in the wind; boy-monks in maroon scampering on the streets; and gaudily painted monasteries splendid in their isolation.
Sikkim's gompas are among the State's biggest attractions. Dotted all across the State, the monasteries, with their distinctive architecture, relics and icons, draw tourists in large numbers. While Pemayangtse, Rumtek and the Tsukhlakhang in Gangtok remain fixtures on most itineraries, those seeking the splendid and the picturesque must also try and visit the lesser-known ones.
Rumtek: The road from Gangtok winds through green paddy terraces for 24 km before arriving at this seat of the Kagyu or the Black Hat sect, situated on the hill facing Gangtok.
Pemayangtse: The monastery, named for the Sublime Perfect Lotus, is situated 112 km west of Gangtok and commands a magnificent view of the mighty Khang-chen-dzonga. The monastery was built in 1705 and is the second oldest, as well as second most important monastery of Sikkim.
Tashiding: A monastery of the Nyingma sect, Tashiding is in West Sikkim, situated some 40 km from Gyaltshing via Legship, and forms a beautiful sight framed against the mighty Khang-chen-dzonga.
Tholung: This is the most inaccessible of all Sikkim's monasteries and can be accessed only after a three-day trek from Mangan in North Sikkim, through dense forests and across steep ridges. But the effort is worth the while, for the monastery houses many antique treasures such as thankas, horse saddles and thigh-bone trumpets.
Adventure trails
Sikkim is the destination for those looking for a dose of adventure. From trekking to mountaineering through river running and mountain biking, it offers a range of activities.
Mountain biking: Of late, Sikkim has also started offering mountain biking as an adventure activity. Mountain bikes can be hired from registered tour operators at economical rates.
River rafting: The white waters of the Teesta and the Rangeet offer some good stretches of thrilling rapids. Sikkim Tourism organises some trips in the frothing lower reaches of both.
Trekking: Sikkim is a trekker's paradise. The near-tropical lushness of South Sikkim, the snow mountains of East Sikkim, the awesome wilderness of North Sikkim. However, most of the more popular trekking routes are the ones in West Sikkim.
Mountaineering: You can choose the peak you want to climb in Sikkim from the list of peaks available with Survey of India. A peak has to be booked before an expedition begins climbing it.
(Excerpted from Sikkim — Land of Mystique; Publishers: Good Earth Publication, New Delhi; Price: Rs 220.)