A spectacular show of art and culture
Located an hour's scenic drive from Gangtok, Lingdum Monastery is a destination for Buddhist pilgrims and devotees of fine art alike. The sprawling complex, set amid serene forested hills, is a specimen of sacred architecture. Its exquisite murals, statues and adornments, besides the impressive scale of the edifice, bring a look of wonderment to every visitor's face.Completed 10 years ago, Lingdum Monastery is a Buddhist center in the tradition of the Zurmang Kagyud lineage. It is under the spiritual direction of Zurmang Gharwang Rinpoche, who is the 12th unbroken successor of the lineage. Up on a hill behind the monastery is a retreat center where monks retire to meditate. As you pull into the parking lot, a long wall fixed with prayer wheels leads you to the front gate. Stepping inside the monastery grounds, you throw your head back to admire the main building. 
Embellished with the symbols of Tibetan Buddhist architecture and topped with carved parasols and finials, it rises in receding terraces and pagoda roofs over a vast courtyard.Lingdum Monastery contains a number of chapels. We took off our shoes and entered the main prayer hall where monks wrapped in maroon robes sat in rows chanting the scriptures. Every once in a while, they clashed their cymbals and beat on a large drum, filling the hall with sonorous music. The large Buddha enshrined at the end of the hall was an awe-inspiring piece of art. The image was massive in size, five meters tall, and its gilt finishing shone in the light. The Buddha's perfectly sculpted face and hands exuded a life-like effect, and its tranquil expression inspired one into contemplation.They told us that the statue had been made in Kathmandu by Shakya craftsmen, with final assembly being done at Lingdum. These artisans, experts in the lost-wax method of statue casting, are continuing their ancestral role of lending their artistic expertise throughout the Himalayan region.We went upstairs to look at the other chapels and their beautifully carved and painted decorations. Out on the terrace, the ceremonial parasols atop the parapet caught our attention. They were ornamented with fancy repousse designs and Sanskrit mantras in Newar script. Indeed, "Om Mani Padme Hum", "Om Bajrasatwa Hum" and such other prayers seemed to be inscribed everywhere, on the walls, over the doorways, along the beams.Looking out into the wide quadrangle enclosed by a cloister, which contained the living quarters, we saw a group of young lamas seated cross-legged on cushions and reciting their lessons. Their energetic voices floated up to us like a loud drone. A master walked through the class, making sure they were concentrating on their texts."Lingdum Monastery shelters almost 300 monks," said Karma Palzor Lama, the in-charge in the absence of the Rinpoche and who guided us around the center. "They come from Sikkim, Nepal, Bhutan, Darjeeling, Kalimpong and other places," he said. As part of their daily routine, which includes studying and performing various chores, he explained that their wakeup call came at 4 AM.We had to be up and out early too, if we were to catch our transport back to Kathmandu the next day. And so we decided to make a hasty retreat to Gangtok as it was already getting dark, even though we would have liked to see more, which, hopefully, will happen during another visit soon